Sarfaranga Cold Desert, Skardu: A Complete Travel Guide

White dunes at 2,300 metres between Skardu and Shigar. How to get there, when to go, what to do, and why it is not the same place as Katpana.

By Sania Babar · September 15, 2026 · 9 min read

White wind-rippled sand dunes of the Sarfaranga Cold Desert in Shigar near Skardu, with sunlit Karakoram ridges and a dramatic cloudy sky, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan — White dunes in the Shigar cold desert at Sarfaranga. Photo by Uzair889 via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0).

Most people arrive at Sarfaranga expecting a patch of sand beside the road. Then the tarmac runs straight into it. The Shigar road crosses kilometres of pale grey-white dunes with the brown walls of the Karakoram on every side, and it takes a moment to accept that you are in a desert and not somewhere far warmer.

What is the Sarfaranga Cold Desert? A high-altitude sand desert at about 2,300 m (7,500 ft) in Shigar district, Gilgit-Baltistan, where the Shigar valley opens onto the Indus. It sits roughly 20 km from Skardu, about half an hour on the Shigar road. Summer days are warm, winter nights fall to around −25 °C, and every October it hosts the Sarfaranga Cold Desert Jeep Rally.

It is also regularly mixed up with Katpana, the other cold desert across the river, including on a good share of the travel pages that rank for it. We sort that out below, along with the practical side of getting there.

Sarfaranga at a glance

	Detail
Location	Shigar district, Gilgit-Baltistan, where the Shigar and Indus rivers meet
Altitude	About 2,200 to 2,300 m (7,500 ft)
From Skardu	About 20 km, around 30 minutes by car or jeep
Nearest airport	Skardu, with regular flights from Islamabad in good weather
Best months	May to October; late September and October for light and the rally
Winter low	Around −25 °C, with snow lying on the dunes
Main event	Sarfaranga Cold Desert Jeep Rally, held in October since 2017
Permits	None needed. Carry your passport or CNIC for road checks

Where is the Sarfaranga desert?

Sarfaranga lies in Shigar district, north of Skardu town, on the flat ground where the Shigar valley meets the Indus. The rivers wrap around it: the Indus on the south and west, the Shigar river on the east. It takes its name from Sarfaranga village, a settlement of under 1,500 people at the desert's eastern corner and the only village inside it.

For travellers the simplest way to place it is this. Leave Skardu, cross the Indus on the bridge towards Shigar, and within a few minutes the road is running through open sand. Keep going and you reach Shigar town and its 17th-century fort. Sarfaranga is the desert between the two, so most people see it on the way to Shigar whether they planned to or not.

The straight Skardu to Shigar road crossing the pale sand of the Sarfaranga Cold Desert under dark Karakoram peaks, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan — The Shigar road running straight across Sarfaranga. Photo by Shahid Rao via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0).

Sarfaranga vs Katpana: are they the same desert?

No, although you will see them merged on plenty of travel sites, and the confusion is understandable. Both are patches of the same cold desert that covers the floor of the Skardu basin. The Indus separates them.

	Sarfaranga	Katpana
Side of the Indus	North bank, towards Shigar	South bank, near Skardu airport
District	Shigar	Skardu
Size	Larger, open and less developed	Smaller, beside Katpana Lake
Altitude	About 2,300 m	About 2,226 m
Best for	Jeep and ATV runs, the rally, space and quiet	A short visit, the lake, glamping sites

If you only have an hour, Katpana is closer to town. If you want room, fewer people and dunes that go on past the edge of your photograph, cross the river to Sarfaranga. On a full day in Skardu you can easily see both.

How to get to Sarfaranga

Getting to Skardu first

Skardu is the base. Flights from Islamabad take about an hour, and on a clear morning Nanga Parbat slides past the window. They are also weather-dependent and cancellations happen. By road it is a long day and a half up the Karakoram Highway and the Skardu road, usually with a night in Chilas. Build a spare day into any itinerary that relies on the flight.

From Skardu to the desert

From Skardu town it is about 20 km and 30 minutes to the heart of the desert on the Shigar road. The road itself is paved and fine for an ordinary car. To leave the tarmac and drive onto the sand you need a 4x4 with a local driver who knows where the ground is firm. Hire one in Skardu for a half day, or join the dunes as a stop on a Shigar day trip.

On our Skardu Scenic Route tour we give Sarfaranga its own day and stay out into the evening, since the desert is at its best after the heat and glare have gone out of the afternoon.

Sarfaranga weather: when to go

The word "cold" in the name refers to the winters and the altitude, not to a summer visit. Here is how the year runs.

Season	Conditions	Worth going?
Spring (Apr to May)	Mild days, cold nights, blossom in the Shigar villages nearby	Yes, quiet and pleasant
Summer (Jun to Aug)	Warm to hot days, often in the high 20s °C; strong afternoon wind	Yes, go early morning or late afternoon
Autumn (Sep to Oct)	Clear air, cool days, gold poplars at the desert's edge	The best months, and rally season
Winter (Nov to Mar)	Well below freezing, down to around −25 °C; snow on the dunes	Only for photographers who plan for it

Two things catch visitors out in every season. The first is wind. Afternoons can turn from a breeze into a sandstorm with very little warning, so keep cameras bagged and don't pitch a tent in the open without checking the forecast. The second is the temperature drop after sunset. Even in July, bring a warm layer if you plan to stay for the stars.

Dark rock outcrops rising from the flat Sarfaranga desert floor with wind-blown dust and Karakoram mountains behind, Shigar, Gilgit-Baltistan — Afternoon wind lifting dust around the rock outcrops on the road to Shigar Fort. Photo by Naeem Malik7777 via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0).

Things to do in Sarfaranga Cold Desert

Walk the dunes

The simplest thing is the best one. Park up, walk away from the road for ten minutes and the traffic noise disappears. The sand here is fine and pale, almost white in strong light, and the ridges hold wind ripples and the tracks of small animals. The dunes are not tall, so anyone reasonably fit can climb them.

Jeep safari, ATV and dune bashing

Local operators run jeep safaris across the sand, and quad bikes (ATVs) and dirt bikes are hired out at the busier spots, especially around the rally ground. Prices are set on the day and vary with the season, so agree the cost and the length of the ride before you get in. Stick to the tracks the drivers use. Churning up fresh dunes is exactly the damage the desert is suffering from.

Camping and stargazing

Sarfaranga sits far enough from Skardu's lights for a properly dark sky. On a moonless, clear night the Milky Way stands out plainly over the dunes, and it is the part of the trip many of our guests remember longest. Camp with a local crew who can pick a sheltered spot and pack up quickly if the wind rises. Bring a four-season sleeping bag outside high summer.

The Milky Way arching over a wind-sculpted sand dune in the Shigar cold desert near Skardu at night, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan — The Milky Way over the dunes on a clear night. Photo by Uzair889 via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0).

Photography

The two hours before sunset are the time to be here. The low light picks out every ripple, and the mountains turn from grey to orange behind the sand. Midday light flattens everything and the glare off the pale sand is harsh. For drone work, check current local rules in Skardu before flying, particularly near the airport side of the valley.

Combine it with Shigar

Sarfaranga is on the way to Shigar Fort, the restored palace of the Amacha rajas, now a heritage hotel, and to the orchards of the Shigar valley. A half day covers the desert and the fort comfortably. For more ideas on timing the wider region, our guide to the best time to visit Skardu goes month by month.

The Sarfaranga Cold Desert Jeep Rally

The Sarfaranga Cold Desert Rally has run since 2017, and for a few days each autumn it turns a quiet stretch of sand into a crowd of jeeps, bikes and spectators. It is held over three days in October, with cultural shows, Balti music, polo and food stalls around the racing.

2022: a 75 km track, 50 jeep drivers including five women, and a separate bike race, as Dawn reported.
2023: the track grew to 80 km, and the event was reported to have generated about $826,000 in local business.
2024: postponed.
2025: returned, starting on 6 October.

Dates for 2026 had not been announced when we wrote this. Check the official site before booking, and book Skardu hotels early if you want to be there: rally week fills the town.

Practical tips for visiting

Sun and glare: sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen. The pale sand reflects light, and at 2,300 m you burn faster than you expect.
Layers: a warm jacket for the evening in every season, and a scarf or buff for blowing sand.
Water and food: carry your own. There are few facilities away from the road and the rally ground.
Footwear: closed shoes. The sand gets very hot in summer and very cold in winter.
Leave no trace: litter and unregulated off-road driving are the biggest threats to Sarfaranga. Take your rubbish back to Skardu.
Respect the village: Sarfaranga is a Balti community. Ask before photographing people.

A lone visitor walking across the white sand of the Sarfaranga Cold Desert with rocky Karakoram mountains around, between Skardu and Shigar — A sense of scale: one walker on the open sand between Skardu and Shigar. Photo by Awais Munawar via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0).

If you are putting together a longer Baltistan trip, Sarfaranga pairs well with Deosai, the 4,000 m plateau south of Skardu, which gives you grass, bears and wildflowers the day after sand. Our Deosai National Park guide covers that side of the valley.

Where is the Sarfaranga Cold Desert?

Sarfaranga is in Shigar district, Gilgit-Baltistan, on the flat ground where the Shigar valley meets the Indus. It is about 20 km north of Skardu town on the Skardu to Shigar road, after the Indus bridge. The rivers wrap around it, with the Indus on the south and west and the Shigar river on the east. The desert takes its name from Sarfaranga village, a Balti settlement of under 1,500 people at its eastern corner and the only village inside it. In practice you cross the bridge towards Shigar, and within a few minutes the tarmac is running through open, pale sand. Keep driving and you reach Shigar town and its 17th-century fort, so most visitors see the desert on the way to Shigar whether they planned to or not. It is not the same place as Katpana, the smaller cold desert on the south bank near Skardu airport.

How far is Sarfaranga desert from Skardu?

About 20 km, or roughly 30 minutes by car or jeep from Skardu town to the heart of the desert. Figures quoted online range from 15 to 25 km depending on which part of the desert is measured. The route is simple: leave Skardu on the Shigar road, cross the Indus bridge, and the sand starts within a few minutes. The road is paved and fine for an ordinary car. Driving onto the dunes is different, and for that you need a 4x4 with a local driver who knows where the ground is firm. Most people hire one in Skardu for a half day, or treat the desert as a stop on a Shigar day trip, since a half day covers the dunes and Shigar Fort comfortably. If you only have an hour, Katpana, the other cold desert, is closer to town. On our Skardu Scenic Route tour we give Sarfaranga a day of its own.

What is the altitude of Sarfaranga Cold Desert?

About 2,200 to 2,300 m above sea level, usually rounded to 7,500 ft. That makes it one of the highest deserts in the world. For comparison, Katpana, the smaller desert across the Indus near Skardu airport, sits at about 2,226 m. The height is what makes this a cold desert. Summer days can be warm, often in the high 20s °C, but winter brings temperatures down to around minus 25 °C, with snow lying on the dunes. The altitude also changes how you should prepare in summer. The air is thin enough that you burn faster than you expect, and the pale sand reflects strong light, so bring sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen. Temperatures drop sharply after sunset, even in July, so keep a warm layer in the car. Deosai, the plateau south of Skardu, is far higher at about 4,000 m and makes a good contrast the next day.

Is Sarfaranga the same as Katpana desert?

No. They are parts of the same cold desert system on the floor of the Skardu basin, but the Indus divides them, and plenty of travel sites merge the two. Katpana is the smaller patch on the south bank, in Skardu district, beside Skardu airport and Katpana Lake, at about 2,226 m. Sarfaranga is the larger one on the north bank, in Shigar district, at about 2,300 m, and it is more open and less developed. Katpana suits a short visit, with the lake and glamping sites close to town. Sarfaranga is where people go for jeep and ATV runs, the October rally, space and quiet, with dunes that carry on past the edge of your photograph. If you only have an hour, Katpana is the quicker option. On a full day in Skardu you can easily see both, and Sarfaranga fits naturally on the road to Shigar Fort.

What is the weather like in Sarfaranga desert?

Summer days are warm and dry, often in the high 20s °C, with strong afternoon winds, while nights stay cool. Winters are severe, with temperatures dropping to around minus 25 °C and snow on the dunes. May to October is the comfortable season. Spring, in April and May, brings mild days, cold nights and blossom in the nearby Shigar villages. Late September and October are the best months: clear air, cool days and gold poplars at the desert's edge, plus the jeep rally. Two things catch visitors out in every season. The wind can turn from a breeze into a sandstorm with little warning, so keep cameras bagged. And the temperature drops fast after sunset, so bring a warm layer even in July if you plan to stay for the stars. In summer, go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the midday heat and glare.

When is the Sarfaranga jeep rally?

It is normally held over three days in October. The Sarfaranga Cold Desert Jeep Rally has run since 2017, with cultural shows, Balti music, polo and food stalls around the racing. In 2022 the track was 75 km, with 50 jeep drivers including five women and a separate bike race. In 2023 it grew to 80 km and was reported to have generated about $826,000 in local business. The 2024 event was postponed, and the 2025 rally began on 6 October. Dates for 2026 had not been announced when our guide was written, so check the official rally website for the current year's dates. If you plan to watch, book Skardu hotels early, because rally week fills the town. Late September and October are also the best months for light in the desert, so a rally trip combines easily with photography and a visit to Shigar.

Do you need a permit to visit Sarfaranga?

No permit is needed for Sarfaranga. Keep your passport, or your CNIC if you are a Pakistani visitor, with you for the routine police checks on the roads around Skardu. The desert sits on the public Skardu to Shigar road, so you can drive in an ordinary car as far as the tarmac goes. A few things are worth sorting out on the day instead. Prices for jeep safaris, quad bikes and dirt bikes are set on the spot and vary with the season, so agree the cost and the length of the ride before you set off. If you want to fly a drone, check the current local rules in Skardu first, particularly near the airport side of the valley. Sarfaranga village is a Balti community, so ask before photographing people. And take your rubbish back to Skardu, since litter is one of the biggest threats to the desert.

Can you camp in Sarfaranga desert?

Yes, and the dark skies make it worthwhile. Sarfaranga is far enough from Skardu's lights that on a clear, moonless night the Milky Way stands out plainly over the dunes, and it is the part of the trip many of our guests remember longest. Go with a local crew who can choose a sheltered site, and be ready to move if a sandstorm builds, which happens quickly on windy afternoons. Don't pitch a tent in the open without checking the forecast. Outside high summer, bring a four-season sleeping bag, and in every season pack a warm jacket, because the temperature falls sharply after sunset even in July. There are few facilities away from the road and the rally ground, so carry your own water and food and take your rubbish back to Skardu. Stick to existing vehicle tracks when driving in, because churning up fresh dunes damages the desert.

Start Your Journey