Sarfaranga Cold Desert, Skardu: A Complete Travel Guide
White dunes at 2,300 metres between Skardu and Shigar. How to get there, when to go, what to do, and why it is not the same place as Katpana.
Most people arrive at Sarfaranga expecting a patch of sand beside the road. Then the tarmac runs straight into it. The Shigar road crosses kilometres of pale grey-white dunes with the brown walls of the Karakoram on every side, and it takes a moment to accept that you are in a desert and not somewhere far warmer.
It is also regularly mixed up with Katpana, the other cold desert across the river, including on a good share of the travel pages that rank for it. We sort that out below, along with the practical side of getting there.
Sarfaranga at a glance
| Detail | |
|---|---|
| Location | Shigar district, Gilgit-Baltistan, where the Shigar and Indus rivers meet |
| Altitude | About 2,200 to 2,300 m (7,500 ft) |
| From Skardu | About 20 km, around 30 minutes by car or jeep |
| Nearest airport | Skardu, with regular flights from Islamabad in good weather |
| Best months | May to October; late September and October for light and the rally |
| Winter low | Around −25 °C, with snow lying on the dunes |
| Main event | Sarfaranga Cold Desert Jeep Rally, held in October since 2017 |
| Permits | None needed. Carry your passport or CNIC for road checks |
Where is the Sarfaranga desert?
Sarfaranga lies in Shigar district, north of Skardu town, on the flat ground where the Shigar valley meets the Indus. The rivers wrap around it: the Indus on the south and west, the Shigar river on the east. It takes its name from Sarfaranga village, a settlement of under 1,500 people at the desert's eastern corner and the only village inside it.
For travellers the simplest way to place it is this. Leave Skardu, cross the Indus on the bridge towards Shigar, and within a few minutes the road is running through open sand. Keep going and you reach Shigar town and its 17th-century fort. Sarfaranga is the desert between the two, so most people see it on the way to Shigar whether they planned to or not.
Sarfaranga vs Katpana: are they the same desert?
No, although you will see them merged on plenty of travel sites, and the confusion is understandable. Both are patches of the same cold desert that covers the floor of the Skardu basin. The Indus separates them.
| Sarfaranga | Katpana | |
|---|---|---|
| Side of the Indus | North bank, towards Shigar | South bank, near Skardu airport |
| District | Shigar | Skardu |
| Size | Larger, open and less developed | Smaller, beside Katpana Lake |
| Altitude | About 2,300 m | About 2,226 m |
| Best for | Jeep and ATV runs, the rally, space and quiet | A short visit, the lake, glamping sites |
If you only have an hour, Katpana is closer to town. If you want room, fewer people and dunes that go on past the edge of your photograph, cross the river to Sarfaranga. On a full day in Skardu you can easily see both.
How to get to Sarfaranga
Getting to Skardu first
Skardu is the base. Flights from Islamabad take about an hour, and on a clear morning Nanga Parbat slides past the window. They are also weather-dependent and cancellations happen. By road it is a long day and a half up the Karakoram Highway and the Skardu road, usually with a night in Chilas. Build a spare day into any itinerary that relies on the flight.
From Skardu to the desert
From Skardu town it is about 20 km and 30 minutes to the heart of the desert on the Shigar road. The road itself is paved and fine for an ordinary car. To leave the tarmac and drive onto the sand you need a 4x4 with a local driver who knows where the ground is firm. Hire one in Skardu for a half day, or join the dunes as a stop on a Shigar day trip.
On our Skardu Scenic Route tour we give Sarfaranga its own day and stay out into the evening, since the desert is at its best after the heat and glare have gone out of the afternoon.
Sarfaranga weather: when to go
The word "cold" in the name refers to the winters and the altitude, not to a summer visit. Here is how the year runs.
| Season | Conditions | Worth going? |
|---|---|---|
| Spring (Apr to May) | Mild days, cold nights, blossom in the Shigar villages nearby | Yes, quiet and pleasant |
| Summer (Jun to Aug) | Warm to hot days, often in the high 20s °C; strong afternoon wind | Yes, go early morning or late afternoon |
| Autumn (Sep to Oct) | Clear air, cool days, gold poplars at the desert's edge | The best months, and rally season |
| Winter (Nov to Mar) | Well below freezing, down to around −25 °C; snow on the dunes | Only for photographers who plan for it |
Two things catch visitors out in every season. The first is wind. Afternoons can turn from a breeze into a sandstorm with very little warning, so keep cameras bagged and don't pitch a tent in the open without checking the forecast. The second is the temperature drop after sunset. Even in July, bring a warm layer if you plan to stay for the stars.
Things to do in Sarfaranga Cold Desert
Walk the dunes
The simplest thing is the best one. Park up, walk away from the road for ten minutes and the traffic noise disappears. The sand here is fine and pale, almost white in strong light, and the ridges hold wind ripples and the tracks of small animals. The dunes are not tall, so anyone reasonably fit can climb them.
Jeep safari, ATV and dune bashing
Local operators run jeep safaris across the sand, and quad bikes (ATVs) and dirt bikes are hired out at the busier spots, especially around the rally ground. Prices are set on the day and vary with the season, so agree the cost and the length of the ride before you get in. Stick to the tracks the drivers use. Churning up fresh dunes is exactly the damage the desert is suffering from.
Camping and stargazing
Sarfaranga sits far enough from Skardu's lights for a properly dark sky. On a moonless, clear night the Milky Way stands out plainly over the dunes, and it is the part of the trip many of our guests remember longest. Camp with a local crew who can pick a sheltered spot and pack up quickly if the wind rises. Bring a four-season sleeping bag outside high summer.
Photography
The two hours before sunset are the time to be here. The low light picks out every ripple, and the mountains turn from grey to orange behind the sand. Midday light flattens everything and the glare off the pale sand is harsh. For drone work, check current local rules in Skardu before flying, particularly near the airport side of the valley.
Combine it with Shigar
Sarfaranga is on the way to Shigar Fort, the restored palace of the Amacha rajas, now a heritage hotel, and to the orchards of the Shigar valley. A half day covers the desert and the fort comfortably. For more ideas on timing the wider region, our guide to the best time to visit Skardu goes month by month.
The Sarfaranga Cold Desert Jeep Rally
The Sarfaranga Cold Desert Rally has run since 2017, and for a few days each autumn it turns a quiet stretch of sand into a crowd of jeeps, bikes and spectators. It is held over three days in October, with cultural shows, Balti music, polo and food stalls around the racing.
- 2022: a 75 km track, 50 jeep drivers including five women, and a separate bike race, as Dawn reported.
- 2023: the track grew to 80 km, and the event was reported to have generated about $826,000 in local business.
- 2024: postponed.
- 2025: returned, starting on 6 October.
Dates for 2026 had not been announced when we wrote this. Check the official site before booking, and book Skardu hotels early if you want to be there: rally week fills the town.
Practical tips for visiting
- Sun and glare: sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen. The pale sand reflects light, and at 2,300 m you burn faster than you expect.
- Layers: a warm jacket for the evening in every season, and a scarf or buff for blowing sand.
- Water and food: carry your own. There are few facilities away from the road and the rally ground.
- Footwear: closed shoes. The sand gets very hot in summer and very cold in winter.
- Leave no trace: litter and unregulated off-road driving are the biggest threats to Sarfaranga. Take your rubbish back to Skardu.
- Respect the village: Sarfaranga is a Balti community. Ask before photographing people.
If you are putting together a longer Baltistan trip, Sarfaranga pairs well with Deosai, the 4,000 m plateau south of Skardu, which gives you grass, bears and wildflowers the day after sand. Our Deosai National Park guide covers that side of the valley.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Sarfaranga Cold Desert?
In Shigar district, Gilgit-Baltistan, on the flat ground where the Shigar valley meets the Indus. It is about 20 km north of Skardu town on the Skardu to Shigar road, after the Indus bridge.
How far is Sarfaranga desert from Skardu?
About 20 km, or roughly 30 minutes by car or jeep. Figures quoted online range from 15 to 25 km depending on which part of the desert is measured.
What is the altitude of Sarfaranga Cold Desert?
About 2,200 to 2,300 m, usually rounded to 7,500 ft. That makes it one of the highest deserts in the world.
Is Sarfaranga the same as Katpana desert?
No. They are parts of the same cold desert system in the Skardu basin, but the Indus divides them. Katpana is the smaller patch on the south bank near Skardu airport and Katpana Lake. Sarfaranga is the larger one on the north bank, in Shigar district.
What is the weather like in Sarfaranga desert?
Summer days are warm and dry with strong afternoon winds, while nights stay cool. Winters are severe, with temperatures dropping to around −25 °C and snow on the dunes. May to October is the comfortable season.
When is the Sarfaranga jeep rally?
It is normally held over three days in October. The 2025 rally began on 6 October after the 2024 event was postponed. Check the official rally website for the current year's dates.
Do you need a permit to visit Sarfaranga?
No permit is needed. Keep your passport, or CNIC for Pakistani visitors, with you for the routine police checks on the roads around Skardu.
Can you camp in Sarfaranga desert?
Yes, and the dark skies make it worthwhile. Go with a local crew who can choose a sheltered site, and be ready to move if a sandstorm builds, which happens quickly on windy afternoons.
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